Best Things to Do in Trabzon: Sumela, Uzungol and Hagia Sophia

Best Things to Do in Trabzon: Sumela, Uzungol and Hagia Sophia

People who sum Trabzon up as "an Uzungol photo and anchovies" go home without seeing a 1600-year-old monastery carved into the face of a cliff, a Byzantine-frescoed church facing the Black Sea, and highlands passing through the clouds. Sumela Monastery hangs on the rock of the Kara Mountain; on the walls of the Hagia Sophia in the city centre the frescoes of the Komnenos painters still shine; above stretch the misty pass of Zigana and the highlands of Hidirnebi. Trabzon is not an anchovy stop but a corridor of history and nature where mountain and sea are pressed together; the real task is to plan the centre and the highlands correctly.

This guide is written for a first visit, but not for the one who wants to pass Trabzon in "half a day at Sumela, half a day at Uzungol." Sumela is 35 km, Uzungol 64 km away, and the two are in different valleys; cramming them into one day burns you out on mountain roads. This guide groups places as the centre, the Sumela valley and the highlands, and you should build your days around that.

The distances below are measured straight-line from central Trabzon; because the mountain roads wind, the real drive takes much longer. The numbers match the pins on the map exactly.

Quick Answer

Central Trabzon (Hagia Sophia, Boztepe, the mansion) fits into one day, the Sumela valley into one, Uzungol into a separate day. Plan the highlands and monasteries as separate valleys.

• **First visit:** Day 1 the centre and Hagia Sophia, Day 2 Sumela and the Altindere valley, Day 3 Uzungol.
• **Base:** Central Trabzon; the monasteries and highlands are reached by car.
• **Car-free:** The centre is walkable; a tour or car is almost essential for Sumela and Uzungol.

Understanding Trabzon in Five Minutes

Trabzon's history was shaped by an empire in exile. When Constantinople fell to the Latins in 1204, the Komnenos dynasty founded a separate empire in Trabzon; this Empire of Trebizond lasted until the conquest of Mehmed the Conqueror in 1461. The city's finest work dates from this period: the 13th-century Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya), on a hill facing the Black Sea, is the peak of Komnenos art with the Byzantine frescoes covering its inner walls.

In the mountains south of the city, a much older story hangs. Sumela Monastery in Macka is carved into the rock of the Kara (Mela) Mountain at 1,150 metres; by tradition the Athenian monks Barnabas and Sophronios came here with a dream of finding an icon of Mary painted by Saint Luke and founded the first church in 386 AD. Emperor Alexios III of Trebizond (1349-1390) is considered the monastery's true founder. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the monastery, with the frescoes in its rock church, is visited today as a museum; Greek monks lived here until the 1923 population exchange.

Knowing these layers changes the visit. At the Hagia Sophia you look at the art of an empire in exile; at Sumela you see a faith hung two thousand metres up on the face of a cliff; at Uzungol you wake to a morning where the mountains have brought their cloud down to the lake. Trabzon lays its history not in a museum but on rock, in church and on highland.

The Centre: Hagia Sophia, Boztepe, the Mansion

The centre is toured on foot and by short drive; the Hagia Sophia, Boztepe and the mansion are close together. The stops below fit into one day.

1. Central Trabzon and the Square

The city's lively core; Ataturk Square, the surrounding market and the streets down to the Black Sea. The square and its surroundings give the city's pulse with their cafes, shops and daily traffic; from here you spread easily to Boztepe, the Hagia Sophia and the harbour. Trabzon's anchovies and Black Sea cuisine are also tasted at the restaurants in the centre.

• **Getting there:** The centre's ground zero; by city bus and on foot (0 km).
• **Best time:** Late afternoon; the square and market come alive.
• **While you're here:** Ortahisar (5) and Boztepe (3) are nearby.
• **Budget:** The square is free; restaurants are mid-range.
• **Common mistake:** Just rushing to Uzungol and skipping the centre; the Hagia Sophia and Ortahisar tell the city's history.

2. Trabzon Hagia Sophia

The 13th-century Komnenos church on a hill facing the Black Sea and Trabzon's most precious work. Built in the Empire of Trebizond period, the building is the peak of the era's art with the Byzantine frescoes covering its inner walls; biblical scenes and saints are worked in vivid colours. The bell tower in its garden and the sea view complete the church. Today it carries the functions of both mosque and museum.

• **Getting there:** By short drive/bus west from the centre (1); 4 km from the centre.
• **Best time:** Morning; for the light and quiet for the frescoes.
• **While you're here:** The Hagia Sophia beach is nearby.
• **Budget:** Paid entry, cheap; modest dress for the worship section.
• **Common mistake:** Passing without noticing the frescoes; the Komnenos frescoes on the inner walls are Trabzon's most special treasure.

3. Boztepe

The hill dominating the city and Trabzon's best viewpoint. The terrace and tea gardens facing the city centre, the harbour and the Black Sea are here; at sunset the whole of Trabzon unrolls beneath your feet. This hill, where locals go out for tea, lets you grasp the city's geography at a glance.

• **Getting there:** By short drive south from the centre (1); 2 km from the centre.
• **Best time:** Sunset; the city and sea catch the light.
• **While you're here:** The centre (1) and Ataturk Mansion (4) are nearby.
• **Budget:** The tea gardens are cheap.
• **Common mistake:** Going up on a foggy day; on the Black Sea cloud can close the view, so wait for clear weather.

4. Ataturk Mansion

A white Black Sea mansion and museum at the foot of Boztepe. Built by a Trabzon merchant and where Ataturk stayed on his visits to the city, this mansion is visited for its garden and the furnishings inside. From its pine-tree garden the city and sea are in view; a stop both historic and peaceful.

• **Getting there:** By short drive south from the centre (1); 1 km from the centre.
• **Best time:** Afternoon; for the garden and view.
• **While you're here:** Boztepe (3) is nearby.
• **Budget:** Paid entry, cheap.
• **Common mistake:** Seeing only the garden and not going inside the mansion; the period furnishings and rooms should be toured too.

5. Ortahisar and Fatih Mosque

The city's historic core; the Byzantine walls, Ortahisar (the old city) and Fatih Mosque. The walls from the Empire of Trebizond period and the old church later converted into a mosque show the city's pre- and post-conquest layers. With its narrow streets and historic fabric, it is the oldest part of the centre.

• **Getting there:** On foot from the centre (1); 0 km from the centre.
• **Best time:** Morning or late afternoon.
• **While you're here:** The central square (1) adjoins it.
• **Budget:** The mosque is free; a place of worship.
• **Common mistake:** Skipping the walls and old fabric and seeing only the square; Ortahisar is the city's oldest layer.

The Sumela Valley: Monasteries and National Park

South of the centre, the mountain valley reached via Macka. Monasteries and forest; a full day and a car are needed.

6. Sumela Monastery

Carved into the rock of the Kara Mountain at 1,150 metres, Trabzon's symbol. Founded in 386 AD and enlarged under Alexios III, this monastery of the Virgin Mary is extraordinary with its structure hung on the face of the cliff and the frescoes in its rock church. Looking up from the valley, the white walls appearing in the forest are one of the Black Sea's most striking sights. Greek monks lived here until 1923; today it is a museum.

• **Getting there:** By car south via Macka from the centre (1), then a walk/shuttle up the valley; 35 km from the centre.
• **Best time:** Morning; both quiet and, before the fog lifts, the atmosphere of the forest.
• **While you're here:** The Altindere valley (7) and Vazelon (8) are in the same area.
• **Budget:** Paid entry; Museum Pass valid. Confirm visiting conditions (maintenance/closure) in advance.
• **Common mistake:** Going without proper shoes; the climb from the valley to the monastery is steep and stony, slippery on a foggy or rainy day.

7. Altindere Valley National Park

The pine- and spruce-forested valley and national park in which Sumela sits. The walking paths by the stream, trout restaurants and forest air complete the monastery visit. Cool and damp even in the summer heat, the valley is the essence of Black Sea nature; take a break by the stream before or after climbing to the monastery.

• **Getting there:** On the Sumela (6) road via Macka; 35 km from the centre.
• **Best time:** Morning; the streamside is cool and shaded.
• **While you're here:** Sumela (6) is above the valley.
• **Budget:** National park entry is cheap; restaurants mid-range.
• **Common mistake:** Focusing only on the monastery and passing the valley by; the streamside walk and trout are part of the experience.

8. Vazelon Monastery

The old Syriac-Greek monastery in Macka, less known than Sumela. In the forest, with its ruined but striking remains, it is a quiet discovery away from the tourist crowd. It is not as tended as Sumela, but with its historical depth and solitude, it is the hidden corner of the monastery valley.

• **Getting there:** By forest road via Macka; 32 km from the centre.
• **Best time:** Morning; deserted and calm.
• **While you're here:** Sumela (6) is in the same Macka area.
• **Budget:** The visit is usually free; the road is rough.
• **Common mistake:** Expecting the same level of upkeep as Sumela; Vazelon is ruined and deserted, and takes exploring.

The Highlands and Uzungol

South of the centre, highlands in the clouds and the famous lake. Separate valleys; a car and a full day are needed.

9. Uzungol

The lake wedged among the mountains in Caykara and Trabzon's most famous view. The spruce forests, the wooden houses on the lake shore and the Haldizen mountains behind form a fairy-tale scene, especially on misty mornings. Touristy and crowded as it is, the real nature opens as you climb from the lake shore to the upper highlands (Sekersu, Demirkapi).

• **Getting there:** By car southeast via Caykara from the centre (1); 64 km from the centre, a long mountain road.
• **Best time:** Early morning; the fog over the lake, before the crowds.
• **While you're here:** The upper highlands above the lake.
• **Budget:** The lake shore is free; restaurants and guesthouses are mid-to-upper, expensive in season.
• **Common mistake:** Staying only in the lake-shore crowd; climb to the upper highlands, the real Uzungol is there.

10. Hidirnebi Highland

The highland above Macka that rises above the clouds. With its green meadows, wooden houses and ridge facing the Black Sea, it is a cool escape in summer. Waking above the sea of fog in the morning is the purest form of Black Sea highland culture. With its festivals and highland houses, it is the centre of local life.

• **Getting there:** By mountain road south via Macka from the centre (1); 33 km from the centre.
• **Best time:** A summer morning; for the sea of fog and the cool.
• **While you're here:** Sumela (6) is in the same Macka direction.
• **Budget:** The highland is free; guesthouse and breakfast are cheap-to-mid.
• **Common mistake:** Setting out without confirming the road and weather; the highland road is steep and fog descends suddenly.

11. Zigana

The historic pass and mountain linking Trabzon to inner Anatolia. Zigana, on the ancient Silk Road, is known for its misty forests, ski resort and tunnel; the view and cool of the pass are the dramatic moment of the crossing from the Black Sea to the plateau. It offers skiing in winter and nature walks in summer.

• **Getting there:** By car south towards Macka-Torul from the centre (1); 48 km from the centre.
• **Best time:** Winter for skiing; summer for walking and the view.
• **While you're here:** Hamsikoy (12) is on the pass road.
• **Budget:** The ski resort is mid-range; the crossing is free.
• **Common mistake:** Going up to the pass without snow tyres in winter; the road is foggy and snowy.

12. Hamsikoy

The mountain village on the Zigana road, famous for its rice pudding. The Black Sea's best-known rice pudding is cooked here; the village in the forest is a stop to break and taste the famous oven-baked pudding. The cool of the road and the calm of the village are the sweet break of the Sumela-Zigana route.

• **Getting there:** South via Macka from the centre (1); 36 km from the centre.
• **Best time:** Midday; for a rice-pudding break.
• **While you're here:** Zigana (11) and Sumela (6) are on the road.
• **Budget:** The rice pudding and village restaurants are cheap.
• **Common mistake:** Just passing the village by; break for the oven-baked rice pudding, a classic Black Sea taste.

How Many Days for Trabzon

• **1 day:** The centre, the Hagia Sophia, Boztepe and the Ataturk Mansion.
• **2 days:** Add Sumela and the Altindere valley (with a Hamsikoy rice-pudding break).
• **3 days:** Uzungol and the upper highlands; a separate day.
• **4 days:** Add Zigana, Hidirnebi and the surrounding highlands.

Classic Mistakes

• **Putting Sumela and Uzungol on the same day.** They are in different valleys and 35-64 km away; combining them burns your trip on mountain roads.
• **Skipping the centre.** The Hagia Sophia frescoes and the Ortahisar walls tell the city's exile-empire history.
• **Going to Sumela without proper shoes.** The climb from the valley is steep and stony, slippery on a foggy or rainy day.
• **Staying only on the lake shore at Uzungol.** Climb to the upper highlands; the real nature and quiet are there.
• **Setting out on the highland and pass roads without checking the weather.** Fog and rain are sudden on the Black Sea, and the road is steep.

Bad-Weather Plan

Trabzon has a Black Sea climate; rain can fall year-round, and fog is frequent in the mountains. On a rainy day the centre (the Hagia Sophia, the mansion, museums) offers an enclosed, dry route; Sumela and the highlands are open-air and can be slippery and dangerous in heavy rain. Sumela's valley climb is harder when wet. Uzungol is beautiful even in fog, but the road needs care. Take a raincoat and sturdy shoes.

Where to Stay

**Central Trabzon** is the most practical base for reaching the monasteries and highlands. **Uzungol** is a separate experience for those wanting to stay a night on the lake shore and live the morning fog; but it is far from the centre. The **Macka** area offers accommodation near Sumela. Highland guesthouses are open in the summer season.

Transport and Car-Free Trabzon

Trabzon Airport is near the city centre; the centre is toured on foot and by bus. But for Sumela, Uzungol and the highlands, a tour or car is almost essential; these points are in the mountain valleys and public transport is sparse. Regular tours to Sumela and Uzungol leave from the centre; for car-free travellers this is the most practical way.

Frequently Asked Questions

**How many days do you need for Trabzon?** One day for the centre and the Hagia Sophia, one for Sumela, one for Uzungol; a classic visit is 3 days. With the highlands it stretches to 4.

**Where is Sumela Monastery, and how do you get there?** In Macka, carved into the rock of the Kara Mountain at 1,150 metres. 35 km from the centre; by car or tour via Macka. Confirm visiting conditions (maintenance/closure) in advance and bring sturdy shoes.

**Can you see Sumela and Uzungol in one day?** Hard. They are in different valleys and a route exceeding 100 km in total; it is better to give each a separate day.

**Why is Trabzon Hagia Sophia special?** It is a Komnenos church built in the 13th century in the Empire of Trebizond period; the Byzantine frescoes on its inner walls are the peak of the era's art.

**Can you reach Trabzon without a car?** The centre is walkable and tours to Sumela-Uzungol leave from the centre. But for the highlands and points like Vazelon, a car is needed.